To prevent hypoglycemia limit stress and exercise.

Put honey on its gums twice a day for 3 to4 days after you bring the puppy home.

Give it plenty of Lectade to drink supplied free to you – It is a good idea to have a 5-10 ml syringe handy if the puppy is not drinking well.

Top up the Puppy’s fluids by slowly dripping it onto tongue at side of mouth at least twice per day (just like giving a baby a bottle at night)

Keep the 2 litres of fluid in the fridge until needed!
The stress of moving home may cause diarrhea. Do not leave this as normal!! Phone Helena. (changing its diet will cause diarrhea and cause dehydration)

Dehydration can cause hypoglycemia which can cause organ failure. The smaller your puppy is, the quicker all this can happen, and it is avoidable.

Puppy Hypoglycaemia means low blood sugar.

Glucose is the form of sugar in the blood. Glycogen is the storage form of glucose and is found in the liver and muscle cells. In puppies, hypoglycaemia is caused by poor nutrition or indigestible food.

Strenuous exercise, as well as stress, play contributing factors as well.

Commonly this happens when the puppy is overexerted by humans or an older existing family pet.

SYMPTOMS:

Lack of energy
Listless
Seizures (very severe cases)
Falling over
Appearing weak or even comatose
Remember glucose is necessary for brain & muscle function.

There are simple solutions for simple symptoms. If your puppy undergoes stress, overexertion, or poor nutrition DON’T PANIC. Try rubbing honey on their gums or by putting Lectade in their water. Even Karo syrup helps. If you see no improvement, please do not hesitate to contact the vet.

You have probably noticed how active all our puppies are. We supply them with the most nutritious food and drink, never too hot or cold. This produces very physically and mentally happy puppies.

Most calls will go to messaging. We do reply.

Hypoallergenic Dogs Explained

Are there any hypoallergenic dog breeds?

There’s no such thing as a hypoallergenic dog breed, although some individual dogs may cause fewer allergy symptoms than others.

Many people think that pet allergies are caused by a dog’s or cat’s fur, but the real source of pet allergies is often a protein that’s in the saliva and urine of dogs and cats. This protein sticks to the dead, dried flakes (dander) from your pet’s skin.

Some dog breeds are marketed as hypoallergenic because they don’t shed fur or they shed very little. Because these dogs don’t shed, the allergy-causing dander that sticks to their fur doesn’t get released into the air or onto the floor as much as with a shedding dog. But while you may have less dog hair with a nonshedding dog, no dog breed is hypoallergenic.

If you’re allergic to dogs, but still want to have one, consider the following tips to reduce your allergy symptoms:

Choose a smaller dog, which will shed less dander than will a larger dog.

Keep your pet out of your bedroom and other rooms in which you spend a lot of time.

Keep your pet outside, if weather permits.

Bathe your pet weekly to remove dander from its coat.

Choose carpet-free flooring, or shampoo your carpet regularly.

Use a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) purifier and vent filters to help reduce airborne pet allergens.
Source (https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/pet-allergy/expert-answers/hypoallergenic-dog-breeds/faq-20058425#:~:text=There’s%20no%20such%20thing%20as,urine%20of%20dogs%20and%20cats) 

Your new puppy will want to be your best friend.

Please treat it that way!

When you first bring your new puppy home:

– You are going to show your pup its new area. This is the place you are going to leave it when you are not there. In many cases people are working etc. Therefore it is best if the puppy is comfy and secure in its surroundings.

– It’s important that this is a non-carpeted area (laundry room or bathroom) in order to avoid toilet training accidents.

– The next step is to make a bed for your new family member. Be sure to place it furthest away from the door or dog door. The place for food and water is beside the bed.

– Away from the bed in a far corner, is where you put down newspaper/litterbox etc.

– Make sure you show this to your pup, and then introduce puppy to the rest of the home. If you have any other pets, make sure to introduce the puppy to them.

– Be sure to give lots of love and cuddles right away. This will help make your new pet feel secure.

– At night, do the same as you would for a new baby. Put the puppy in its bed, then go out and come back in to check on it. Then your pup knows where its food, bed, water, and bathroom area is.

– Leave a night light on. A radio set at low volume also provides great comfort. This way the puppy doesn’t get lonely as easily. Give him or her a cuddly toy, say goodnight, and shut the door. Stay out for about 15 minutes each time. Don’t wait too long though as you don’t want the puppy to become over-stressed!

– When you wake up, check for signs that puppy has gone to the toilet. Generally when a dog wakes up, it needs to go piddle and will usually yawn. When you see them circling around it means they need to go poo. Put them on their toilet or outside. Do the same after a meal, after playing, and of course before you go to bed, and as soon as you get up.

– When you are not there, do the same for your puppy as you would when going to bed.

– Please try to give your pup some playtime and exercise before, and after you leave for the day/return at night. Leave the TV or radio on when you go out.

Sterilization

We recommend that all animals, not intended for specific breeding purposes, should be sterilized. The surgery for females is called a “spay”. This is a full ovario-hysterectomy, meaning that she will never go in heat or get pregnant. The surgery for males is called a “castration”. Both of his testicles are removed, unlike a vasectomy where the tubes are ligated (tied).

The main reasons we recommend these procedures are:

They stop unwanted litters of puppies.

They reduce the risk of mammary cancer and uterine infections in females.

They reduce the risk of prostate problems in males.
They reduce the likelihood of aggression towards people and other dogs (males specifically).

They minimize the likelihood of dogs roaming to find a “mate”.

The minimum age for either of these procedures is 4 months but there is never a maximum age.

Identification

It is a Council requirement for you to have your pet properly identified. Pet tags may be purchased from our Veterinary Clinic. They come in various shapes and sizes to suit your pet budget. Microchipping is the most effective means of identification for your pet. It is a safe and simple procedure with a one-off payment. Your details are registered on a national database (anywhere in Australia or New Zealand) which may be accessed 24 hours a day. It is also important that you register your pet with the shire. This is relatively cheap, and if your pet ever gets out you will avoid paying fines for having an unregistered pet. This is compulsory by law.

Behaviour

We have included some puppy behaviour and training notes. If this does not answer all your questions, please contact Bayswater Veterinary Clinic, Unit 2 1010 Beaufort St, Bedford 6052 for assistance. They run a Puppy Preschool. These are fun classes where they share with you and your puppy basic information on: behaviour, obedience training, health, and preventative medicine. Please ask any of our staff for information if you are interested.

IMPORTANT

Yelping a lot is a sign of distress. Check the food water, its toilet area, and sometimes its mouth. As much as you try to prevent it, they can get into things that get stuck in the roof of the mouth. Saying that, prep the dog bed area to ensure that they don’t have access to anything that could cause problems. Puppies chew as their teeth are growing. When in doubt, call your vet.

If you have another animal when your puppy arrives, that animal is #1. Talk to that one first, feed that one first, and pet that one first. Otherwise it will get jealous of the newcomer.

Whenever you are unsure, need help etc., you have my phone number. Please feel free to call me.

Nutrition

A complete and balanced diet is essential for all puppies. The most important feature of a balanced diet is that it contains all the nutrients required by a dog. Its particular stage of life requires calcium and energy. There are a number of excellent commercial products available, which can often make the choice a little confusing. An important consideration is the age and the breed of your puppy. This will determine the most appropriate diet. For example a 6 month old Jack Russell has entirely different nutritional needs to a 6 month old Great Dane. Please ask our specially trained staff about which diet is the most suitable for your puppy. As well as the length of time each diet should be fed. A young puppy needs three meals a day, until they are twelve weeks old.

Heartworm

The most common cause is mosquitoes. It affects blood-flow to the heart. The end result is heart failure and eventually death if left untreated. We recommend that all dogs be on heartworm prevention. If this prevention is started prior to 6 months of age, then no test is required. If prevention is started after 6 months or doses are missed, then we strongly recommend a quick and simple test be performed.

Worming

We strongly recommend regular worming against intestinal worms, which are completely different to heartworm.

The main intestinal worms we treat for are:

Roundworm
Hookworm
Whipworm
Tapeworm
Flea Tapeworm
Hydatids Tapeworm

The majority of puppies are infected with roundworm and hookworm from their mother, via the milk or the placenta. Dogs are exposed to worms throughout their lives from the eggs in the environment, other animals, and fellow canines.

Worms will cause gastrointestinal signs such as diarrhoea, vomiting, and abdominal pain but if left untreated may rapidly lead to severe problems and even death.

The other great concern is that worms can be transmitted to people, especially young children. They can lead to various problems, from dermatitis through to blindness from larval migration to the eye. Hydatids also pose a serious threat to children and adults, as cysts may develop anywhere within the body including the brain.

We recommend the following schedule for worming with a product such as Drontal. This is highly effective against all of the intestinal worms.

AGE

WORMING FREQUENCY

2, 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12 weeks

Fortnightly

4 – 6 months

Every month

6 months & up

Every 3 months for life

Advocate and Revolution are spot on treatments used monthly, that covers most intestinal worms, but not tapeworm. They also cover fleas, heartworm, ear mites, and lice.

Fleas
Fleas can often be a nuisance to puppies and owners a like. Because fleas ingest blood, severe infestations can lead to loss of red blood cells and serious disease.

Flea Treatments

There are a huge number of flea products available in supermarkets, pet shops, and veterinary clinics. Having so many options can lead to confusion. Be careful with the choice of product that you use on your puppy, even if the label claims to be safe.

12 weeks is often the minimum age at which they are safe to use. In most cases, we recommend safe and effective spot-on products. Such as Revolution, Frontline, Advantage, or Advocate. Every dog and every family are different in their lifestyle, so please feel free to discuss with us the most appropriate flea treatments. We have a specially trained staff.

Toilet Training

A puppy has no idea that there is anything wrong with going to the toilet on your floor.

It is not enough to correct unacceptable behaviour. You need to teach the right behaviour.

In order to do so, you must CATCH IT IN THE ACT of toileting in the wrong place. No animal understands punishment after the act. If you don’t catch puppy toileting, gently remove the pup from the room and clean up the mess.

YOU HAVE CAUGHT YOUR PUPPY RED HANDED, NOW WHAT?

Don’t hit the pup with a rolled newspaper and NEVER rub its nose in the mess.

Correct puppy with a firm NO. Take it to the place where you want it to go to the toilet. It may not need to go anymore, but make sure puppy stays there for a few moments. Now praise it.

***Yelling at or hitting your pet will simply cause anxiety. This will most likely result in it going to the toilet everywhere.

Regularly take the pup to where you want it to go to the toilet, and encourage it to go. You may start to use a word such as “toilet” when the pup is toileting. Wait for the pup to go to the toilet and PRAISE IT IMMEDIATELY. Praise is extremely important. Don’t just put the pup outside on its own. It doesn’t know why you have put it out, and may just sit waiting for you to let it back in.

Learn to recognize the signs that mean the pup needs to go to the toilet. These include yawning, restlessness, sniffling about on the floor, walking with back legs spread apart and squatting. These are times when the pup is more likely to go to the toilet. These include soon after eating and after waking up from sleep. If possible, install a doggy door so that the pup can go outside when it wants to.

When your pup is very small, or if it is going to be kept indoors without access to the garden you may train the pup to use a litter tray. As your puppy learns to use the tray you can gradually move the tray to the back door, outside the door, then into the garden (or where ever you want the pup to go).

Always thoroughly clean and dry any spots where “accidents” happen. If the pup can smell any urine or faeces, it will encourage the pup to go again in the same spot. Use a commercial pet stain remover with odour neutralizer, bicarb soda. If the pup is going to the toilet in a certain room, close the door or put a barrier up so that the pup cannot go in the room without supervision. Remember your puppy is only young, and don’t expect too much.

Digging

Digging is completely natural for dogs. They do this for several reasons. These include finding/burying food, making a cool spot to lie down, when anxious, or just for fun. Owners however, may take a different viewpoint when it comes to gardens or lawns.

As with toilet training, you MUST catch it in the act. The pup will not understand why it is being punished after the fact. Never yell at your puppy. It will simply feel frightened, not guilty. Refrain from any sever punishment. Never bury the pup in the hole, place traps in the hole, or other stupid acts. This behaviour on your part merely teaches the pup to dig a hole only when you’re not there.

Proper Procedure

To teach a pup where it is not allowed to dig, you should only allow it to have access to the garden when you are around to supervise.

Providing the pup with a digging area or sandpit allows the pup to dig without damaging your garden. Digging in a sand pit can be a good way for the pup to occupy itself when its home alone. Encourage the pup to dig there by praising it and burying toys and treats for the pup to find. The pup will use this where it is praised, and where it sometimes finds a treat rather than your garden where it has no treats or rewards.

When you catch the pup digging in the garden, tell it NO firmly and take it to its digging pit. Encourage it to do so there. Train the pup to stay out of certain areas of the garden. Use a command such as “OFF” and praise the pup when it gets off the garden bed. You may also set up temporary barriers to help the pup understand where the boundaries are. Permanent barriers can be set up to protect certain areas of the yard. If the pup can’t get into the area it can’t do any damage. You may fence an area for the pup to stay in when you go out, or at night. The pup should be gradually accustomed to being left in this area, and should have food, water, shelter, and toys available.

Freshly turned garden beds or new plants will attract the pup’s attention and encourage digging. Protect these areas with a barrier. Repellent sprays can be placed on garden beds or around certain plans to deter digging in those spots. Dog droppings can also be buried in the holes the dog has dug. Chicken mesh can be laid over garden beds or lawns to protect them from digging, or be buried just below the surface. Make sure the mesh is securely fixed down and there are no sharp edges.

If the pup is digging to make a cool spot to lie in, provide it with a cool place in the shade.

Parvovirus

The last thing any new puppy owner or dog breeder wants to hear is a diagnosis of parvo. Parvo in puppies is unfortunately a common disease with deadly consequences, which is why it is important for anyone dealing with puppies on a regular basis to be aware of the symptoms of parvo and what to do about it.

What Is Parvo?

Parvo in puppies is caused by the canine parvovirus. This virus is highly contagious and spreads through direct contact with an infected dog or by indirect contact with a contaminated object. Your puppy is exposed to the parvovirus every time he sniffs, licks, or consumes infected feces. Indirect transmission occurs when a person who has recently been exposed to an infected dog touches your puppy, or when a puppy encounters a contaminated object, like a food or water bowl, collars and leashes, and the hands and clothing of people who handle infected dogs.

The Merck Veterinary Manual classifies the virus as a disease of the stomach and small intestines, as this is where the virus does the most damage. The virus prefers to infect the small intestine, where it destroys cells, impairs absorption, and disrupts the gut barrier. Parvo in puppies also affects the bone marrow and lymphopoietic tissues, and in some cases can also affect the heart.

Why Do Puppies Get Parvo?

Puppies ages six weeks to six months are the most susceptible to parvo. Puppies younger than six-weeks-old still retain some of their mother’s antibodies, assuming that the dam received her full series of parvo vaccinations. Puppies are vaccinated against parvo at approximately 6, 8, and 12 weeks of age. They are vulnerable to the disease until they have received all three shots in their vaccination series, which means owners need to take extra precaution during this time to prevent their puppies from contracting the virus. Puppies should receive a dose of canine parvovirus vaccine between 14 and 16 weeks of age, regardless of how many doses they received earlier, to develop adequate protection.

The severity of parvo cases varies. The stress of weaning can lead to a more severe case of parvo n puppies, as stress weakens the immune system. A combination of parvo and a secondary infection or a parasite can also lead to a more severe case of parvo in puppies.

To top it off, certain breeds of dogs are at an increased risk of parvo:

Rottweilers
Doberman Pinschers
American Staffordshire Terriers
English Springer Spaniels
German Shepherd Dogs
Labrador Retrievers

How Long Are Puppies With Parvo Contagious?

Puppies and adult dogs with parvo start shedding the virus within 4-to-5 days of exposure. Unfortunately for conscientious owners, this time period does not always coincide with the first parvo symptoms, which means dogs can be contagious before owners even realize that they are sick. Puppies with parvo continue to shed the virus for up to 10 days after a clinical recovery, so be sure to keep any puppies recovering from parvo away from unvaccinated and partially vaccinated dogs.

Outside of your dog, the virus can survive indoors for at least one month, and outdoors it can survive for many months and even a year under the right conditions. Talk to your vet about the best way to remove the parvovirus from your home environment or kennels.

Symptoms of Parvo in Puppies

A puppy with parvo is a very sick dog. The sooner you catch the early signs of the virus in puppies, the sooner you can get your dog to the vet. Since parvo is common in young puppies, you should call your vet any time your puppy is feeling under the weather, but you should also be aware of the specific symptoms of parvo in puppies:

Bloody diarrhea
Vomiting
Fever
Lethargy
Anorexia
Weight loss
Weakness
Dehydration
Depression

All of these symptoms are serious by themselves and could be a sign of parvo or another serious illness. You should contact your vet immediately if you suspect your puppy has parvo, and be sure to notify the vet’s staff ahead of time of your suspicions and your puppy’s symptoms, so that they can take the appropriate quarantine procedures to prevent your puppy from infecting other dogs.

Treating Parvo in Puppies

Your vet will diagnose parvo based on clinical signs and through blood work. She may also run a test called an ELISA to search for virus antigens in your dog’s feces and will perform additional diagnostic testing as needed.

There is no cure for parvo. Your vet will offer your puppy supportive care over the course of the illness, treating symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, and dehydration, and making sure that your puppy gets adequate nutrition.

Serious viruses like parvo weaken a puppy’s immune system and lower his white blood cell count, reducing his ability to fight off secondary bacterial infections. The damage the virus does to a dog’s intestinal wall increases the likelihood of a secondary infection. Your vet may put your puppy on an antibiotic medication to combat these bacterial infections and will monitor your puppy carefully for additional complications.

Parvo is a potentially fatal disease. The survival rate of dogs treated by a veterinarian is 68 to 92 percent, and most puppies that survive the first three-to-four days make a complete recovery. Recovery times vary depending on the severity of the case, but it usually takes approximately one week for puppies to recover from parvo.

Your veterinarian will walk you through the appropriate treatment steps for your puppy’s case and will advise you about any precautionary steps you need to take for any other puppies and dogs in your household.

Preventing Parvo in Puppies

Parvo is a preventable virus. All puppies and adult dogs should receive their parvo vaccinations, and it is especially important that bitches used for breeding receive a full course of parvo vaccinations, as the puppies will depend on the mother’s antibodies for the first few weeks of life.

You should not allow puppies to come into contact with unvaccinated dogs until they have received all of their parvo vaccines. Make sure all dogs in your household are vaccinated, and be very careful when socializing your puppy. Dog parks and other places where dogs congregate are potential sources of parvo, so plan on socializing your puppy in a less public environment.

Socialization and training are very important for puppies. You can safely socialize your puppy with fully vaccinated adult dogs in an environment like your home. Puppy classes, boarding facilities, and doggy daycare facilities usually require proof of vaccination for all of their participants, but it is a good idea to talk to your vet about the appropriate level of caution.

Parvo is a serious and highly contagious disease. Understanding how parvo spreads, the symptoms of parvo, the treatment options for parvo, and the best ways to prevent parvo in puppies will help you keep your puppy safe. For more information about parvo, talk to your vet.

Note: This article is not intended as a substitute for veterinary care. If you suspect your dog has parvo, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Source (link)
https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/what-every-puppy-owner-needs-to-know-about-parvo-in-puppies/