New Puppy Care


Aug30 Cavoodle male puppy with a mixed brown coat with some white patches and a black collar

Your new puppy will want to be your best friend.

Please treat it that way!



Do not leave new pup alone with older dog un-accompanied. It may get hurt, or be unable to get a drink, or food, or be chased around so much it goes into hypoglycemiathen organ failure can occur.

  1. To prevent hypoglycemia limit stress and exercise
  2. Put honey on its gums twice a day for 3 to4 days after you bring the puppy home.
  3. Give it plenty of Lectade to drink supplied free to you – It is a good idea to have a 5-10 ml syringe handy if puppy is not drinking well. Top up the Puppy’s fluids by slowly dripping it onto tongue at side of mouth at least twice per day (just like giving a baby a bottle at night)
  4. Keep the 2 liters of fluid in fridge until needed!
  5. Make sure it always has plenty of Lectade until it is finished. Then make sure it has plenty of water thereafter.

The stress of moving home may cause diarrhea. Do not leave this as normal!! Phone Helena. (changing its diet will cause diarrhea and cause dehydration)

Dehydration can cause hypoglycemia which can cause organ failure. The smaller your puppy is, the quicker all this can happen; and it is avoidable.

Puppy Hypoglycaemia means: low blood sugar.

Glucose is the form of sugar in the blood. Glycogen is the storage from of glucose, and is found in the liver and muscle cells. In puppies, hypoglycaemia is caused by poor nutrition or indigestible food.

Strenuous exercise as well as stress play contributing factors as well.

Commonly this happens when the puppy is overexerted by humans or an older existing family pet.


  • Lack of energy
  • Listless
  • Seizures (very severe cases)
  • Falling over
  • Appearing weak or even comatose

Remember glucose is necessary for brain & muscle function.

There are simple solutions for simple symptoms. If your puppy undergoes stress, overexertion, or poor nutrition DON’T PANIC. Try rubbing honey on their gums or by putting Lectade in their water. Even Karo syrup helps. If you see no improvement, please do not hesitate to contact the vet.

You have probably noticed how active all our puppies are. We supply them with the most nutritious food and drink, never too hot or cold. This produces very physically and mentally happy puppies.

When you first bring your new puppy home:

- You are going to show your pup its new area. This is the place you are going to leave it when you are not there. In many cases people are working etc. Therefore it is best if the puppy is comfy and secure in its surroundings.

- It’s important that this is a non-carpeted area (laundry room or bathroom) in order to avoid toilet training accidents.

- The next step is to make a bed for your new family member. Be sure to place it furthest away from the door or dog door. The place for food and water is beside the bed.

- Away from the bed in a far corner, is where you put down newspaper/litterbox etc.

- Make sure you show this to your pup, and then introduce puppy to the rest of the home. If you have any other pets, make sure to introduce the puppy to them.

- Be sure to give lots of love and cuddles right away. This will help make your new pet feel secure.

- At night, do the same as you would for a new baby. Put the puppy in its bed, then go out and come back in to check on it. Then your pup knows where its food, bed, water, and bathroom area is.

- Leave a night light on. A radio set at low volume also provides great comfort. This way the puppy doesn’t get lonely as easily. Give him or her a cuddly toy, say goodnight, and shut the door. Stay out for about 15 minutes each time. Don't wait too long though as you don't want the puppy to become over-stressed!

- When you wake up, check for signs that puppy has gone to the toilet. Generally when a dog wakes up, it needs to go piddle and will usually yawn. When you see them circling around it means they need to go poo. Put them on their toilet or outside. Do the same after a meal, after playing, and of course before you go to bed, and as soon as you get up.

- When you are not there, do the same for your puppy as you would when going to bed.

- Please try to give your pup some playtime and exercise before, and after you leave for the day/return at night. Leave the TV or radio on when you go out.


We recommend that all animals, not intended for specific breeding purposes, should be sterilized. The surgery for females is called a “spay”. This is a full ovario-hysterectomy, meaning that she will never go in heat or get pregnant. The surgery for males is called a “castration”. Both of his testicles are removed, unlike a vasectomy where the tubes are ligated (tied).

The main reasons we recommend these procedures are:

  • They stop unwanted litters of puppies.
  • They reduce the risk of mammary cancer and uterine infections in females.
  • They reduce the risk of prostate problems in males.
  • They reduce the likelihood of aggression towards people and other dogs (males specifically).
  • They minimize the likelihood of dogs roaming to find a “mate”.

The minimum age for either of these procedures is 4 months but there is never a maximum age.


It is a Council requirement for you to have your pet properly identified. Pet tags may be purchased from our Veterinary Clinic. They come in various shapes and sizes to suit your pet budget. Microchipping is the most effective means of identification for your pet. It is a safe and simple procedure with a one-off payment. Your details are registered on a national database (anywhere in Australia or New Zealand) which may be accessed 24 hours a day. It is also important that you register your pet with the shire. This is relatively cheap, and if your pet ever gets out you will avoid paying fines for having an unregistered pet. This is compulsory by law.


We have included some puppy behaviour and training notes. If this does not answer all your questions, please contact Bayswater Veterinary Clinic, Unit 2 1010 Beaufort St, Bedford 6052 for assistance. They run a Puppy Preschool. These are fun classes where they share with you and your puppy basic information on: behaviour, obedience training, health, and preventative medicine. Please ask any of our staff for information if you are interested.

- IMPORTANT Yelping a lot is a sign of distress. Check the food water, its toilet area, and sometimes its mouth. As much as you try to prevent it, they can get into things that get stuck in the roof of the mouth. Saying that, prep the dog bed area to ensure that they don’t have access to anything that could cause problems. Puppies chew as their teeth are growing. When in doubt, call me (0438 744 774).

- If you have another animal when your puppy arrives, that animal is #1. Talk to that one first, feed that one first, and pet that one first. Otherwise it will get jealous of the newcomer.

- Whenever you are unsure, need help etc., you have my phone number. Please feel free to call me (Helena). I am available for puppy help 7 days a week. It's better to call me than to worry!!


A complete and balanced diet is essential for all puppies. The most important feature of a balanced diet is that it contains all the nutrients required by a dog. Its particular stage of life requires calcium and energy. There are a number of excellent commercial products available, which can often make the choice a little confusing. An important consideration is the age and the breed of your puppy. This will determine the most appropriate diet. For example a 6 month old Jack Russell has entirely different nutritional needs to a 6 month old Great Dane. Please ask our specially trained staff about which diet is the most suitable for your puppy. As well as the length of time each diet should be fed. A young puppy needs three meals a day, until they are twelve weeks old.


The most common cause is mosquitoes. It affects blood-flow to the heart. The end result is heart failure and eventually death if left untreated. We recommend that all dogs be on heartworm prevention. If this prevention is started prior to 6 months of age, then no test is required. If prevention is started after 6 months or doses are missed, then we strongly recommend a quick and simple test be performed.


We strongly recommend regular worming against intestinal worms, which are completely different to heartworm.

The main intestinal worms we treat for are:

  • Roundworm
  • Hookworm
  • Whipworm
  • Tapeworm
  • Flea Tapeworm
  • Hydatids Tapeworm

The majority of puppies are infected with roundworm and hookworm from their mother, via the milk or the placenta. Dogs are exposed to worms throughout their lives from the eggs in the environment, other animals, and fellow canines.

Worms will cause gastrointestinal signs such as diarrhoea, vomiting, and abdominal pain but if left untreated may rapidly lead to severe problems and even death.

The other great concern is that worms can be transmitted to people, especially young children. They can lead to various problems, from dermatitis through to blindness from larval migration to the eye. Hydatids also pose a serious threat to children and adults, as cysts may develop anywhere within the body including the brain.

We recommend the following schedule for worming with a product such as Drontal. This is highly effective against all of the intestinal worms.



2, 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12 weeks


4 – 6 months

Every month

6 months & up

Every 3 months for life

Advocate and Revolution are spot on treatments used monthly, that covers most intestinal worms, but not tapeworm. They also cover fleas, heartworm, ear mites, and lice.


Fleas can often be a nuisance to puppies and owners a like. Because fleas ingest blood, severe infestations can lead to loss of red blood cells and serious disease.

Flea Treatments

There are a huge number of flea products available in supermarkets, pet shops, and veterinary clinics. Having so many options can lead to confusion. Be careful with the choice of product that you use on your puppy, even if the label claims to be safe.

12 weeks is often the minimum age at which they are safe to use. In most cases, we recommend safe and effective spot-on products. Such as Revolution, Frontline, Advantage, or Advocate. Every dog and every family are different in their lifestyle, so please feel free to discuss with us the most appropriate flea treatments. We have a specially trained staff.

Toilet Training

A puppy has no idea that there is anything wrong with going to the toilet on your floor.

It is not enough to correct unacceptable behaviour. You need to teach the right behaviour.

In order to do so, you must CATCH IT IN THE ACT of toileting in the wrong place. No animal understands punishment after the act. If you don’t catch puppy toileting, gently remove the pup from the room and clean up the mess.


Don’t hit the pup with a rolled newspaper and NEVER rub its nose in the mess.

Correct puppy with a firm NO. Take it to the place where you want it to go to the toilet. It may not need to go anymore, but make sure puppy stays there for a few moments. Now praise it.

***Yelling at or hitting your pet will simply cause anxiety. This will most likely result in it going to the toilet everywhere.

Regularly take the pup to where you want it to go to the toilet, and encourage it to go. You may start to use a word such as “toilet” when the pup is toileting. Wait for the pup to go to the toilet and PRAISE IT IMMEDIATELY. Praise is extremely important. Don’t just put the pup outside on its own. It doesn’t know why you have put it out, and may just sit waiting for you to let it back in.

Learn to recognize the signs that mean the pup needs to go to the toilet. These include yawning, restlessness, sniffling about on the floor, walking with back legs spread apart and squatting. These are times when the pup is more likely to go to the toilet. These include soon after eating and after waking up from sleep. If possible, install a doggy door so that the pup can go outside when it wants to.

When your pup is very small, or if it is going to be kept indoors without access to the garden you may train the pup to use a litter tray. As your puppy learns to use the tray you can gradually move the tray to the back door, outside the door, then into the garden (or where ever you want the pup to go).

Always thoroughly clean and dry any spots where “accidents” happen. If the pup can smell any urine or faeces, it will encourage the pup to go again in the same spot. Use a commercial pet stain remover with odour neutralizer, bicarb soda. If the pup is going to the toilet in a certain room, close the door or put a barrier up so that the pup cannot go in the room without supervision. Remember your puppy is only young, and don’t expect too much.


Digging is completely natural for dogs. They do this for several reasons. These include finding/burying food, making a cool spot to lie down, when anxious, or just for fun. Owners however, may take a different viewpoint when it comes to gardens or lawns.

As with toilet training, you MUST catch it in the act. The pup will not understand why it is being punished after the fact. Never yell at your puppy. It will simply feel frightened, not guilty. Refrain from any sever punishment. Never bury the pup in the hole, place traps in the hole, or other stupid acts. This behaviour on your part merely teaches the pup to dig a hole only when you’re not there.

Proper Procedure

To teach a pup where it is not allowed to dig, you should only allow it to have access to the garden when you are around to supervise.

Providing the pup with a digging area or sandpit allows the pup to dig without damaging your garden. Digging in a sand pit can be a good way for the pup to occupy itself when its home alone. Encourage the pup to dig there by praising it and burying toys and treats for the pup to find. The pup will use this rea where it is praised, and where it sometimes finds a treat rather than your garden where it has no treats or rewards.

When you catch the pup digging in the garden, tell it NO firmly and take it to its digging pit. Encourage it to do so there. Train the pup to stay out of certain areas of the garden. Use a command such as “OFF” and praise the pup when it gets off the garden bed. You may also set up temporary barriers to help the pup understand where the boundaries are. Permanent barriers can be set up to protect certain areas of the yard. If the pup can’t get into the area it can’t do any damage. You may fence an area for the pup to stay in when you go out, or at night. The pup should be gradually accustomed to being left in this area, and should have food, water, shelter, and toys available.

Freshly turned garden beds or new plants will attract the pup’s attention and encourage digging. Protect these areas with a barrier. Repellent sprays can be placed on garden beds or around certain plans to deter digging in those spots. Dog droppings can also be buried in the holes the dog has dug. Chicken mesh can be laid over garden beds or lawns to protect them from digging, or be buried just below the surface. Make sure the mesh is securely fixed down and there are no sharp edges.

If the pup is digging to make a cool spot to lie in, provide it with a cool place in the shade.